The duty-cycle is pretty consistent with a range of 51% to 57%. With the oscilloscope's frequency analyzer in storage mode, I hold the Zapper probes and put the oscilloscope probes somewhere on my body and then I vary the frequency of the Zapper using the 1 Megohm potentiometer. When testing my body on a spectrum analyzer while using the Simple Zapper with an output of around 5 Volts (tested on a DC voltmeter), I noticed that the frequencies around 4,000 hz to around 18,000 hz had larger peaks telling me that my body at the time was more conductive (less reactive?) and/or less resistive to frequencies in this range at the given voltage. With my body being more conductive (less reactive?) at these frequencies, I believe that there is a better dispersal of the Simple Zapper's output within my body. I did this recent test with one Zapper probe in each hand (as opposed to both in one hand) and the oscilloscope probes (RCA to 1/4" phone plug adaptor) in my mouth near my wisdom teeth with my lips around the RCA ground (like a lollipop). The oscilloscope's frequency analyzer was in storage mode. With the Simple Zapper circuit on this page, change the 2.2k ohm resistor to 4.3k ohm if you want a ~15,000 hz frequency. I have recently built a couple of Zappers with optimized output frequencies of around 11,000 hz. I haven't tested anyone using the Simple Zapper other than myself, so there is the possibility that your body's response may differ.
How TO Assembling The Zapper
If you have tools such as a drill, needle nose pliers, and small drill bits, buy one of the plastic project boxes on the list, otherwise build your zapper in a shoe box, or a box half the size of a shoe box.
1. You will be using the lid of the shoe box or plastic lid of the project box to mount the components. Save the box to enclose the finished project.
2. Pierce two holes near the ends of the lid. Enlarge the holes with a pen or pencil until the bolts would fit through. Mount the bolts on the outside about half way through the holes so there is a washer and nut holding it in place on both sides. Tighten. Label one hole "grounding bolt" on the inside and outside.
3. Mount the 555 chip in the wire wrap socket. Find the "top end" of the chip by searching the outside surface carefully for a cookie-shaped bite or hole taken out of it. Align the chip with the socket and very gently squeeze the pins of the chip into the socket until they click in place.
4. Make 8 pinholes to fit the wire wrap socket. Enlarge them slightly with a sharp pencil. Mount it on the outside. Write in the numbers of the pins (connections) on both the outside and inside, starting with number one to the left of the "cookie bite" as seen from outside. After number 4, cross over to number 5 and continue. Number 8 will be across from number 1. The pins are numbered like this:
| 1 | 8 |
| 2 | 7 |
| 3 | 6 |
| 4 | 5 |
5. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart very near to pins 5,6,7, and 8. They should be less than 1/8 inch away. (Or, one end of each component can share a hole with the 555 chip.) Mount the .01 uF capacitor near pin 5 on the outside. On the inside connect pin 5 to one end of this capacitor by simply twisting them together. Loop the capacitor wire around the pin first; then twist with the long-nose pliers until you have made a tight connection. Bend the other wire from the capacitor flat against the inside of the shoe box lid. Label it .01 on the outside and inside. Mount the .0047 uF capacitor near pin 6. On the inside twist the capacitor wire around the pin. Flatten the wire from the other end and label it .0047. Mount the 3.9 K Ohm resistor near pin 7, connecting it on the inside to the pin. Flatten the wire on the other end and label it 3.9. Mount the 1 K Ohm resistor and connect it similarly to pin 8 and label it 1K.
6. Pierce two holes ½ inch apart next to pin 3 (again, you can share the hole for pin 3 if you wish), in the direction of the bolt. Mount the other 1 K Ohm resistor and label inside and outside. Twist the connections together and flatten the remaining wire. This resistor protects the circuit if you should accidentally short the terminals. Mount the 3.9 K Ohm resistor downward. One end can go in the same hole as the 1K resistor near pin 3. Twist that end around pin 3 which already has the 1K resistor attached to it. Flatten the far end. Label.
7. Next to the 3.9 K Ohm resistor pierce two holes ¼ inch apart for the LED. Notice that the LED has a positive and a negative connection. The longer wire is the positive (anode). Mount the LED on the outside and bend back the wires, labeling them + and - on the inside.
8. Near the top pierce a hole for the toggle switch. Enlarge it until the shaft fits through from the inside. Remove nut and washer from switch before mounting. You may need to trim away some paper with a serrated knife before replacing washer and nut on the outside. Tighten.
9. Next to the switch pierce two holes for the wires from the battery holder and poke them through. Attach the battery and tape it to the outside.
Connect Everything
Twist free ends of the two capacitors .01 and .0047 together. Connect to Grounding Bolt using an alligator clip.
Bend pin 2 and pin 6 together inward, using an alligator clip, catch them and connect to free end of 3.9K Ohm (by pin 7).
Alligator clip Pin 7 to free end 1K Ohm (near pin 8)
Using two microclips Pin 8 and pin 4 to one end of switch (use hole to attach both microclips).
Free end of 1K Ohm (by pin 3) to the Bolt using an alligator clip.
Alligator clip the free end of 3.9K Ohm (by pin 3) to plus end (long) of LED.
Minus end (short) of LED to Grounding Bolt with an alligator clip.
Alligator clip pin 1 to the Grounding Bolt.
Alligator clip Black battery wire to Grounding Bolt.
Micro clip the Red battery wire to free end of switch.
Hook up the battery, and the light should turn on, click the switch if it does not, check connections if LED does not light up.
Attach a long lead wire to the grounding bolt & bolt, and then to the copper handles. Wrap handles in paper towel, clip with lead wire, wet handle when you are ready to zap.)
